Liu Fang – From Coal Mines to Cleveland’s Dumpling Queen
Early Life in Qufu, Shandong – Roots in a Traditional Landscape
The story of Liu Fang begins in the Qufu District of China’s Shandong province, a region deeply tied to history, tradition, and food culture. Shandong, known as the birthplace of Confucius, has long been a hub of philosophy and learning. It is also one of the great food provinces of China, home to Lu cuisine — one of the “Eight Great Cuisines” of the country, recognized for its bold flavors, seafood, and mastery of soups.
Fang grew up in this culturally rich environment, surrounded by family meals that emphasized flavor, balance, and respect for ingredients. Yet, unlike many who pursue culinary careers from an early age, Fang’s journey would take a very different path before she eventually found her calling in food.
Academic Path and a Career in Coal Mining
After completing her schooling in Shandong, Fang moved to Hubei province to attend college. There, she pursued an education that led her into the industrial sector, a field far removed from kitchens. Upon graduation, she secured a job at a coal mining compliance company — a role that required her to travel extensively across China and overseas.
This phase of her career might seem unrelated to food, but it turned out to be instrumental in shaping her culinary perspective. Traveling for work allowed Fang to experience China’s vast regional food cultures firsthand, from spicy Sichuan dishes to delicate Cantonese flavors. Meals often included heavy drinking as part of the business culture, but Fang noticed something missing: the beer selections rarely lived up to the quality of the food.
This observation planted a seed — one that would later grow into her entrepreneurial venture into craft beer.
Meeting Carl Setzer and Falling in Love with Craft Beer
During her professional years, Fang’s personal journey took an important turn when she met Carl Setzer, an American who would later become her husband and business partner. Their relationship was fueled by shared curiosity, travel, and the pursuit of authentic experiences. Together, they explored food and beverage cultures in places like Laos and Belgium, where Fang was first introduced to the world of craft beer.
In Belgium, particularly, she witnessed how carefully brewed beers were paired with food in ways that elevated both. This experience deeply resonated with her, especially given her earlier frustrations with mismatched pairings in China. For Fang, beer was no longer just a drink — it was a cultural bridge and an art form that could stand shoulder to shoulder with food.
Founding Great Leap Brewing – China’s First Craft Brewery
By 2010, Fang and Setzer made a bold move: they co-founded Great Leap Brewing in Beijing, establishing the first craft brewery in China. At the time, the concept of craft beer was virtually unknown in the country, making this a pioneering and risky endeavor.
Great Leap quickly became a trailblazer, not only introducing locals to craft beer but also embedding itself within Beijing’s growing urban food scene. Fang was instrumental in developing the food program to complement the beers, ensuring that the brewery wasn’t just about drinking but about a complete dining experience.
Although she wasn’t yet leading the kitchen, Fang spent long hours observing and learning. She would often linger in the back, watching chefs at work, asking questions, and slowly acquiring the practical skills that would later define her career.
Over the next decade, Great Leap Brewing expanded to five locations across China, becoming an icon of modern Chinese entrepreneurship and a cultural touchstone for locals and expats alike.
A Pandemic Detour – From Beijing to Cleveland
In 2020, Fang and Setzer were visiting Setzer’s hometown of Cleveland, Ohio, with their young family. Their visit coincided with the global COVID-19 pandemic, which would change the course of their lives.
When they attempted to return to China, Setzer was temporarily detained at the Chinese border, leaving Fang alone in Cleveland with their infant daughter and eight-year-old son. It was a daunting situation, but Fang turned to what comforted her most: cooking.
Night after night, she made buns, dumplings, and traditional dishes, drawing not only on her heritage but also on her evolving culinary imagination. For Fang, the process was therapeutic, helping her cope with uncertainty. But it also became a turning point. She realized she wanted to share the richness of Chinese cuisine with her new community in Cleveland.
The Birth of Abundance Culinary
That realization quickly transformed into action. Fang secured a two-day residency at Chef Jeremy Umansky’s Larder Delicatessen & Bakery, where she introduced Cleveland diners to her take on Chinese food. The residency was a success, sparking excitement and proving there was a strong appetite for authentic yet modern Chinese flavors in the city.
In 2023, Fang and Setzer officially opened Abundance Culinary in the Cleveland Heights neighborhood. The restaurant was conceived not just as a dining venue but as a cultural platform, showcasing the evolution of Chinese cuisine through Fang’s personal lens.
At Abundance, Fang’s philosophy is clear: she is not replicating dishes for the sake of nostalgia but reinterpreting classics with respect and creativity. Her menus balance tradition with innovation, offering everything from soulful dumplings to dishes reimagined with modern twists.
A Community-Centered Approach
Abundance Culinary has quickly become more than a restaurant — it’s a community hub. Fang and her team host dumpling-making classes, helping locals connect with Chinese culture through hands-on cooking. They organize charity events, collaborate with other chefs and food professionals, and maintain a strong commitment to sharing knowledge and experiences.
This emphasis on collaboration and education reflects Fang’s broader vision: to use food as a bridge between cultures. By creating a space where people can not only eat but also learn and connect, she is redefining what it means to be a chef in the modern world.
Recognition and the Rust Belt Rising Stars Award
In July 2025, Fang’s contributions were nationally recognized when she received the StarChefs Rust Belt Rising Stars Award, an honor reserved for chefs and hospitality leaders shaping the future of America’s food scene.
The award validated Fang’s unique journey — from coal mining compliance officer to craft beer pioneer, from pandemic cooking sessions to leading one of Cleveland’s most talked-about restaurants. It positioned her not only as a rising star but also as a role model for resilience, innovation, and cultural storytelling through food.
Culinary Philosophy – Tradition Reimagined
At the heart of Fang’s cooking is a belief in the evolution of cuisine. She doesn’t see Chinese food as static but as a living tradition that adapts, travels, and grows. Her approach at Abundance Culinary reflects this:
- Scratch-made philosophy – from buns to dumplings, everything is prepared with care.
- Balancing heritage and creativity – honoring Chinese traditions while adding personal and modern touches.
- Community-driven cooking – food as a tool for connection, education, and generosity.
For Fang, food is not only sustenance but also a medium of storytelling and empathy.
Looking Ahead – The Future of Abundance Culinary
As of 2025, Abundance Culinary continues to thrive in Cleveland Heights, with growing popularity and opportunities for expansion. Fang envisions further collaborations, more cultural programs, and potentially additional locations.
Yet, she remains grounded in her mission: to use her platform to showcase the depth and diversity of Chinese cuisine, while also building bridges across cultures in her adopted hometown.
The Journey of Chef Liu Fang
Before she found her way into professional kitchens, Liu Fang built a career in a completely different world. Born in Qufu, Shandong province, she studied in Hubei and began working in coal mining compliance, a job that took her across China and overseas. Travel broadened her palate, exposing her to the vast diversity of Chinese cuisine. Yet, she often noticed that while meals were rich in flavor and culture, the beer pairings fell short.
Her perspective shifted further when she met her husband, Carl Setzer. Together they traveled through places like Laos and Belgium, where Fang discovered the artistry of craft beer. Inspired, the couple returned to Beijing and in 2010 founded Great Leap Brewing, China’s first craft brewery. Over a decade, they expanded to five locations, pairing quality beer with thoughtful food programs. Fang, though not yet a professional chef, began learning in the kitchen, absorbing techniques and ideas from the chefs around her.
In 2020, while visiting Cleveland during the pandemic, Fang found herself stranded with her two children when Setzer was held at the Chinese border. To cope, she turned to cooking. Late nights making buns and dumplings became her comfort and, eventually, her calling. A short residency at Larder Delicatessen & Bakery confirmed her path forward.
By 2023, Fang and Setzer opened Abundance Culinary in Cleveland Heights, a restaurant devoted to showcasing the evolution of Chinese cuisine through her modern, personal lens. Beyond dining, Fang built Abundance into a community hub, offering dumpling-making classes, charity events, and collaborations with local chefs.
In 2025, she was honored with the StarChefs Rust Belt Rising Stars Award, recognition of her resilience, creativity, and commitment to sharing Chinese food with a wider audience. Today, Fang continues to blend tradition and innovation, bringing soulful Chinese flavors to Cleveland.